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General Climbing Discussion

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THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 15-Apr-2004 At 6:06:06 PM Tel

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On 15/04/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>
>Could be the heady mix of thin air at the top combined with aroma of rekindled
>cauldron (or new ingredients) wafting up from below ...
>
Forget the top I am still jumping on the coals way way down below.......

I am having a hard time following this, as my understanding that a grade is based on the hard moves or crux of the climb, so then what is the difference between a crux on a sport route or a crux on a trad route.
As far as retrobolting has this topic been somewhat resolved in that unless express permission of the FA is given then retrobolting is not on, isn't that what the ethics are all about. At least that is what I thought.
Again with regard to 'death routes' leave them be and come back to them when you are able enough, they should remain as sources of inspiration and sheer wonder at how it was done. I say this presuming that most of these 'death routes' are graded quite high and if you are up to or near that level I don't quite see how you wouldn't know what you are up against. Also are we that starved for climbs that we have to retrobolt 'death routes', to soften them.
Maybe informing those that do the guidebooks and ask for better beta is easier than changing grading systems.
tel ... burnt soles an' all