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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

why are old routes so hard? e.g. Kingdom Come 28-Apr-2010 At 3:03:48 PM prb

Message

It's just hard to grade the thrutch factor on some old routes. Whether it's graded 4, 14 or 24, it's going to be ugly. A good example is the 1968 climb Equinox (14) at The Bluff, a granite headland south of Adelaide. Three friends and I have tackled it - I made the best effort getting half way up (we climb mid-20s when fit). It's a fairly tight leaning chimney with a difficult undercut start. You really need to get in facing left (so your back is comfortably against the rock) but damned if I could do that. Facing right, progress was so awkward that I gave up with seriously twisted knees. There's also a tightening at mid-height that forces you out to the smooth flaring lips in quite a disconcerting position. It's a climb for those who enjoy suffering. It's also a terrific sandbag to have up your sleeve.