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Significant events that have changed your climbing 8-Apr-2010 At 3:16:53 PM evanbb

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fooooo... heavy stuff.

Mine is much more prosaic, and I'm not going to go into the whole back story, but for those that are keen there's an article on it in Crux 7.

But, I can relate to the breakdown on lead. I've had 10,000 shoulder dislocations, both shoulders over many years. The last few reductions were epic and involved all sorts of shenanigans with drugs and doctors in friendly hospitals.

I've since had the worst one rebuilt and it's just like a bought one. Even better than it's ever been.

But, something inside my brain has stopped working. I've never been a particularly bold leader, but I've lead stacks of trad all over Australia and know my shit at the very least. Now though, despite my shoulders being in their best nick ever, I just can't get psyched to climb. I've suddenly become risk averse and more cautious.

The point I'm getting at is that I should be at all time high confidence-wise, and yet I'm shitting myself on lead in ways I had never before conceived. Something was removed during the operation and I need to figure out what it was.