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General Climbing Discussion

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THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 1-Apr-2004 At 12:59:25 PM Mike

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On 1/04/2004 DBD wrote:
>Seems to me anybody who leads XI with those wigglies that adventure
>climbers use for protection has a death wish, an adrenaline addiction or
>no dependants.

I've lead XI, oh maybe four times over a number of years and can't recall feeling suicidal on it (or indeed any climb). My memory of the route is that it has enough trad gear for me personally. I can't speak for others, but I know I could easily downclimb the little slabby start if I was to venture up it again and decide differently. Again, from memory, it doesn't get serious (for me) until after you've committed to the crack above, and by that stage hopefully made use of it for protection.

If I recall it rightly, the crux (for me) is about halfway up the crack, with a 2nd crux being hanging about trying to get a couple of aliens into the traversy bit (well after the crack), just before you tag the massive final stage jugs. The slab start is probably half the grade (for me). People capable of leading trad 18 should be able to downclimb the start if they step on and don't like the look of the gear. Net result: I don't think it needs a bolt. However, this is just my opinion, and I am in no way declaring it "safe" for the masses. Rock breaks, gear pulls, it happens. Make your own judgements on the day. You can always go climb one of the other 2000+ routes instead.

That said, and noting Will's comments about moving flakes, maybe the rock is worse than it used to be?