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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Coastal Climbing in Aus? 22-Jan-2010 At 4:39:04 PM EJ
Message
Freycinet has some fantastic climbing in a spectacular position. It's also a tad warmer than many other crags in Tassie. As mentioned, Whitewater Wall has some good routes. If you want some shorter introductions to granite, then Lassies Wall is close by.

There are some cliffs on the way out to Mt Brown (South Eastern Tasmania), which are pretty user friendly. If your climbing in the low teens, there are the Parrot Shelf Cliffs which have good access to the top and bottom for top roping and/or leading. Not too far away (5 mins walk) is the Paradiso, which has heaps of sport routes in the low-high 20's with a few high teens as well. The nearby Worlds End is also worth checking out.

If you want some more info on climbing these places check out the online guides at: http://www.thesarvo.com/

As for the sea cliffs in SA, its basically limited to the area around Victor Harbour and the nearby Waitpinga. The granite slabs at the Bluff have some worthwhile, albeit quite short, bolted routes. Waitpinga is a great little cliff (but quite high, ~50-70m) that has undergone some development in the past few years. There is a mix of mid teens to low 20's sport routes. They can feel a little run out at times, but they are certainly safe and rock is bomber. You just have to watch out for the odd rouge wave if the swell is up.

The Waitpinga guide can be downloaded from the CCSA: http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides/Waipinga%20Guide%20Version%20%206.pdf

If your in SA, then the Bluff/Waits is worth checking out but I doubt I'd make a transcontinental trip for it, however Freycinet and SE Tassie would definitely be worth a trip!

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