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Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting? 20-Aug-2009 At 1:53:45 AM robertsonja

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Sure this is only one climb and two bolts on some distant end of Tiger wall, so who really cares anyway? – the issue is retro-bolting belays for dubious reasons and precedents set.

So, a hundred posts and counting…..and no one has come with up with credible reasons why this belay has been bolted?

In summary: Reasons so far pertain to human limitations rather than limitations of the rock/route.

“at the end of a 50m pitch prospective leaders may have limited gear” – so what?, get more gear, climb a shorter pitch, break it up.

“leaders may have limited experience to create a suitable anchor" – so what? get more experience.

“placements are of dubious quality” – there are placements to build six anchors, some placements better than others, some no doubt of dubious quality, but enough to build an safe anchor.

Lack of consultation, beside people who actually climbed with the bolter.

"the route never had a clear route description” – irrelevant to the 3rd belay, who cares what a guide book says.

“was covered in lichen and moss on the first two pitches – irrelevant to the 3rd belay

"the route had dangerous loose blocks – irrelevant to the 3rd belay.

Was given zero stars – irrelevant to the 3rd belay

“end result is a vastly improved trad climb” – it is not improved, it is degraded, it is now a mixed route.

“made more fun by the fact that she didn’t have to faff around setting up an anchor” - whether she finds this belay ledge fun or not is not relevant to the rock.

“this thread is ridiculous” – don’t read it then.

“you forget to add safety in there” – it is not a safety issue.

“easy access/retreat is a positive to for most non-commercial climbers” – this is not an access or retreat issue, this is the third belay of a 4 pitch route.

Simey - “I agree that a bolt belay seems a little out of place on a naturally protected 120m route” – that is exactly the point, bingo!

“But having done a fair bit of work in checking out and cleaning this route, it became apparent that this was an exceptionally good climb at the grade offering excellent natural protection for the entire length... apart from a shitty third belay. Sure you can faff around and equalise 5 or 6 pieces in shitty rock and create a safe belay” – yes it has excellent natural protection for the entire length, period. You only need to equalise any of three of the dozen placements, take your pick, or belay from somewhere you are comfortable.

“but it just seemed out of character compared to the rest of the route” – yes the bolts are out of character.

Simey - “I am more than happy to pull my bolts out of dribble if….” - why drill holes if your happy to pull your own bolts out if...?

“the belay maybe troublesome” not all belays were created equal, so what, be troubled.

“I will definitely make an effort then to camouflage the bolts” – don’t worry, I’ll give you the hangers back and you can paint them pink with little purple poka dots.