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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Proof loading bolts 20-Jul-2009 At 7:16:49 PM porkpie

Message

The loads climbers apply to anchors are on dynamic ropes and often there is a lot of load absorbed as the belayer is pulled (or jumps up). Looking at the UIAA load limits for even factor 2 falls on dynamic ropes and there is little to worry about with modern bolting practices and glues. Have a look at the strength of the swagging on a wire or the clip in loop of a cam.

Don't get me wrong it is good to see the anchors get tested but I don't want to see craters all over the crag because huge loads were applied to bolts in sandstone that is not nearly as strong as 60 MPA concrete. Also a lot of industrail anchors are designed to hold a fall on a cable stretched between two anchors - having a load angle close to 180 degrees means each anchor has almost twice the load applied to it.

I think we need to assess our climbing anchors on thier own merits not against an AS that is applied to industry unless we are going to climb on 60MPA rock and with steel cable.

Having said that I am stoked to see your bolts held up so well to the pull test Gav - I am worried how the old bash ins will go on the pull tester.