Just a tiny point to add, slightly off topic... There was some mention that a leader might feel safer handing a first-time beginner belayer a GriGri rather than an ATC because, even if they let go completely it will still lock (hopefully), but the disadvantages include the first-timer possibly learning poor technique or at least technique that won't transfer to the standard ATC should they decide to get into climbing. My point; a solution is to have them use an ATC, but have an experienced belayer back up the first-time belayer by standing behind them and holding the slack (break) end of the rope allowing them only enough rope to work with. This way the beginner learns to use a standard ATC under supervision and the leader still gets a belay they can trust.
Of course this means you need two belayers, so doesn't solve the problem if you're short of partners and only managed to talk your girlfriend's, counsin's brother into once-off belay duties or something. In which case, yeah, I'd rather them use the GriGri, even if they short rope me. |