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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

why are old routes so hard? e.g. Kingdom Come 30-Jan-2009 At 1:23:56 PM prb

Message

It is a slippery slope, but that's the point of the Ewbank system.

I don't know these climbs, but if Wicked Solitaire had no other moves of significance and Angels had
eight other moves of similar difficulty up an overhanging wall with no useful rests and you were fiddling
in small wires onsight...

What fish boy is proposing is a new system grading moves, not routes or boulder problems: fb grades?
I would think only the minority of routes would have an agreed and unavoidable crux move though. At
Araps, Debutantes might be one (fb 25?), the move low down on Electric Warrior (fb 20?), I think the
first move leaving the roof flake is the toughest on Kachoong (fb??). How do you grade the jump start
to Cecelia?

>Being scared is a sign of too little drugs.

It depends on the drugs.