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General Climbing Discussion

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engineering students-wanna do research? 3-Dec-2008 At 12:43:26 PM hangdog

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On 2/12/2008 simey wrote:
>Rather than read a whole lot of boring technical shit, what I would like
>to see is someone make a film where you film some unsuspecting climbers
>and immediately afterwards ask them whether you can test their placements.
>
>Testing involves using 'Buster' (a 'Myth-Busters' inspired dummy with
>some sort of imitation blood inside it) and then dropping Buster from various
>points of the climb onto the gear that the leader has just placed. You
>would use the same size belayer and re-enact their belaying too.
>
>The leader could also provide a commentary on what they thought were their
>good and not-so-good pieces prior to Buster being dropped.
>
>Forget engineering students researching this subject. This subject needs
>a wannabe film director, preferably someone with an interest in splatter
>films.
>
>
Although i am usually a fan of things done in bad taste, the idea of Buster the crash test dummy is a bit over the top even for me. You could do it on "the Obituary" at Mt York. Oh its been done for real!! Twice at least!! We have plenty of examples of poor gear placement around the place. Just check the accident register. We have plenty of examples of Busters doing just this test. They just weren't being filmed at the time.
Oh and before the "Nanny State" do gooders start posting with the you can't say that stuff. I am semi taking the piss !! .