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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
easy method to groove stainless rings / Ubolts 18-Sep-2008 At 8:03:12 PM atreyudelacy
Message
>metric threads are described like this: M10 x 1.5
>this means that the thread outside diameter is 10 mm and the pitch is 1.5 mm
>(the pitch is the distance between two crests or two valleys on the thread.....)
>the minor diameter is easily worked out using this formula md = od - 2(0.54*p)
>so for m10 x 1.5 (which is ISO standard) md = 8.92mm.

Cheers... i'll remember that one.

You are right, there are many circumstances where the threads included diameter is less important
than the diameter of the shank (threads excluded). However, if you look at the failure modes
discussed by Stephen Hawkshaw, you'll see that there are also many cases where the threads
included diameter is critical. There are so many factors that can't be controlled, especially considering
that these bolts are installed by someone sitting in a harness trying to juggle drills, glue guns, bolts
etc. (i've never tried this but i get the impression that it would be quite difficult). In reality, it would be
very difficult to actually generate forces of these magnitude in most sport climbing falls, but i know i
would feel more comfortable trusting any bolt knowing that the bolter had erred on the conservative
side.

There are 27 replies to this topic.

 

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