On 12/03/2008 The good Dr wrote:
>There is no ring bolt. The bolt at the pod is a painted fixed hanger and
>all the ratty fixed gear is no longer there. There are ring bolts on some
>new routes, so maybe that has caused the confusion. Considering that there
>was originally about 5 rusting carrots and all sorts of fixed nonsense,
>I would say it is in very fine condition these days, hardly bolting gone
>silly by any stretch of the imagination (and imaginations surely get stretched
>on this fine web site)
Ah, it's a fixed hanger, eh? That makes it all O.K.
Wait a second, no it doesn't, why the f--- does it need to be there? You say there were once five bolts? That means that at some point climbers with more sense than you pulled four bolts because advances in gear made those bolts redundant. The only remaining carrot had been hammered over and I certainly didn't clip it because there is great gear close by.
There are also old, pointless bolts next to cracks in Eurydice and Thunder Crack. I hope no one uses the same shit logic to replace those, pulling the one out of Trojan will be time consuming enough.
(ps this is One Day Hero) |