Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Why are the gyms focussing on toprope? 31-Jan-2008 At 8:02:36 AM PDRM

Message

(Dons flame proof suit)

Technical climbing skills are learnt outdoors by seconding routes, gaining an understanding and familiarity with the system and in time taking the lead on moderate routes. Using natural pro safely and effectively can ONLY be leant that way. Physical and gymnastic ability is enhanced by pulling plastic as well as through stretching, weight training and aerobic activities.

Leading in a gym is IMHO largely a pointless pose. At best it makes gym climbing a bit more interesting. I have seen some of the most egregious and aweful examples of lead climber belaying in the gym at Nuna. Belayers standing many metres back from the base of the route, leaning back on the rope, exaggerated weird belaying technique that speaks more to impressing numkies than keeping the leader safe - in short technique that if replicated on a trad climb would have the potential to get the leader killed by zippering the pitch.

Whinging about why gyms do not cater for and encourage more lead climbing is like a road cyclist asking why gyms can't have rollers instead of stationary cycles or a rowing tank instead of ergy machines for rowers. Gym climbing is training not a sport (for most of us?). For those who do see lead climbing as an end in itself, get past it and go climb a rock.

.Macca