For lovers of tough 13s, I recommend Black Man's Reach in The Ramparts at Moonarie. The top half of the first pitch rears up into an offwidthy leaning corner/roof with little but slab for feet. It psyched me out so I moved L onto the Sweeping Statement (20) slab, tiptoed happily up that, then moved back to the BMR belay. The second pitch, a traverse into Spartacus (18), was still tough at the grade but more reasonable than the first. The top pitches of Spartacus, including the airy crux moves into (and in) the hanging corner, were a romp compared to BMR. |