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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Training variables: angle, hold size, weight 20-Nov-2007 At 5:32:56 PM Ronny

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On 20/11/2007 rod wrote:
>sliamise, that was just a pile of bullshit irrelevant to the question and
>situation presented. in my book bold does not mean sliding off into space,
>it means at least 7 metre falls on cheese grater slabs with ledge risk
>wherein 6b to 7a can mean lifetime injury. relatively, 45 degrees without
>ground fall risk is a cakewalk as, like almost anything overhanging, the
>majority of 7c's are soft with little risk to anyting but ego.

Nonsense. It was perfectly relevant. What sliamise is saying is lose any ideas of training specific angles for what you want to climb, and just find the most appropriate way to train overall. Steep boards tend to be better in sliamise's (and my) experience. If its too vert then you just end up with crap tiny crimps and lots of weight on your feet. Make it steeper and you'll train finger strength and body tension more effectively. The only level you need to go to in terms of specifics is whether you go for more power (short/hard problems) or power-endurance (long problems/linking problems together).

You can't train the 'head' required for bold stuff on a board anyway - so forget about it and just train as effectively as possible.