Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Are guidbooks killing the adventure climb ? 25-Sep-2007 At 4:59:12 PM GravityHound

Message

On 23/09/2007 Macciza wrote:
>Cheeers Dudes, Thanks for backup.
>
>Sure I call it as I see it and pretty much 'cut to the cux' and online
>it might come across harsh but it
>would get really difficult and frustrating to try and run through the
>whole supporting arguments . . .
>
>Part of the difficulty with this question is what your definition of 'adventure'
>is . . .
>I observe lots of people who want lots of beta on climbs before trying
>them, people who approach
>climbs as 'put the draws on first, work out the moves & redpoint it when
>I know I can climb it' as well
>as people who will 'take', sit on the draw, give up when, or before, it
>gets difficult or scary or runout
>etc etc . .
>None of these things seem particularly adventurous to me . . . but hey
>I do it myself sometimes . . .
>That's another thing sometimes I might not live up to my professed ethics
>but I try to as I can . . .
>
>Sorry GH - I don't mean to put people down in a negative way, I mean to
>inform them of alternatives
>and I cop plenty of flak myself for things that others think is dangerous
>or bad technique. I rapped of
>some 10mm tat today that I had left on Dogface a few years ago - I considered
>it fine so I would tell
>others likewise, you really don't need 2 points to rap off but plenty
>will tell me otherwise. I wouldn't call
>it particularly adventurous the bolt was bomber the tat was there and
>I could leave it there and all in all
>it was the simplest solution and amply safe. If I call someone out for
>over-engineering something it's
>because I truly believe and use the alternatives, and find the logic behind
>their reasons flawed. . . .
>
>So I guess it really comes down to definitions doesn't it adventure can
>be be found in many ways and
>yes heading out in search of new cliffs and put up routes is adventurous
>on one level - getting there
>and rap-bolting is adventurous but maybe diminishes the adventure of the
>ultimate climb, I've been
>there - and decided to put up a gear-route at a sport crag so some adventure
>would be kept.
>
>Finally, the guide books usually point out the adventurous climbs and
>I think most climbers avoid
>them. We freed Gigantor on DogFace 2 years ago and it is one hell of an
>adventure climb - I could
>count on 1 finger the number of people to have even had a look at repeating
>it in the time since. How
>many repeats has Shai Halud had - it sounds like an awesome adventure
>. . .
>
>God damn it - why didn't I just answer 'YES' and simply be done with it
>. . .
>Thanks for reading if you made it here . . .I just got back from an attempt
>on Collossus on DogFace
>and a bit amped up still . .
>Namaste
>
>
>
F#ck me, I certainly had my cranky pants on last Friday. Pls accpet a very humbled apology Mac, no matter how much I disagreed with your statement there were much nicer ways of going about letting you know I disagreed. On with the thread......