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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Possible Wolgan Death Route 22-Sep-2007 At 4:08:48 PM stevec

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These death blocks are part of the original route over the choss choke roof. A leader could potentially kick these blocks onto his belayers face, however this is not necessary to get up the route in a similar style of the FA. Rather than stomping your way up, a little finesse is needed to avoid upsetting the rocks.
This begs some important questions. What are the prevailing ethics in reguard to retro cleaning routes?
What if a rock lands on a critical mantle ledge? Should it be removed? or the route regraded?
if a chockstone falls out of a crack should the route be re chocked?
what if the missing chockstone was a little too high or deep to sling easily, making the route slightly more difficult for people with short or chubby arms. On face routes, carrrots are often replaced with rings 30 cms beneath the original placement. Is this a good rule of thumb for rechocking routes? I am worried that this may be frowned upon as retro chocking.