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General Climbing Discussion

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THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 19-Apr-2007 At 11:24:20 AM TLockwood

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On 18/04/2007 spicelab wrote:

>What about the increasing trend in sport-climbing in which climbers begin
>with one, two and even three runners pre-clipped now, yet still insisting
>on calling it a lead ascent?

One reason for this, I atleast have noticed is that the first and maybe second bolts are already clipped, is because they are a fair way above the deck, with commiting moves below the first bolt, therefore in the interests of safety i've clipped atleast the first bolt, recently i did this on both Weaveworld and Chain of Fools at the Gallery, both sharing a bouldery start. I'm not saying this was a pure lead having the first bolt clipped, but i wasn't about to compromise my safety by going bold. I do realise there is a possible placement for a 3/4 cam before the first bolt, but i made my choice. On other sport climbs such as Spasm In A Chasm at Araps, i placed the wire at the start then climbed to the first bolt without stick clipping it. I personally clip the first or second bolt based on a safety judgement.

I havnt climbed extensively on sport, but this is a recurring trend that i have noticed, not with anyone's climbs in particular, but just in general. Whether its ignorance on safetys behalf or wanting to create a bold lead, i dont know.

anyway, thats just my opinion.

Tim