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Ben Lomond Bolts Removed 16-Apr-2007 At 8:26:54 PM n00bpwn3r

Message

On 16/04/2007 Vertigo wrote:
>Sport and bolting go together

Don't agree. Maybe overseas, but Australia has a long tradition of "mixed" routes, that is to say bolts would only be placed if there was no other option. This was a truely unique ethic that was developed due to the development of routes/areas by people with little or no experience of climbing overseas. "Sport" climbing only really began to appear in early to mid 90's. If you look at some of the routes put up in the 80's, say like at Turtle or Shinx Rock in Giraween, they are hardly "Sport" routes because the only protection is bolts. The routes could be described as sporty due to the consequences of falling before clipping the first bolt or the 40 odd foot whip topping out onto the last bolt (these examples are face routes, not slabs and were not rehearsed before first ascent). Arapiles is the same, anybody who describes it as a "Traditional" climbing area has probably only climbed in the sub grade 20 bracket.
Basically what I'm saying is, good luck on the no bolting policy (bolting is illegal in all National Parks, not just Tassie) but if I went there and felt that I had to really do a new route and it needed a bolt, I would put it in and not give a rat's arse what other people have told me what I could and couldn't do.
Sqweak (sp?, 'cause be buggered if I can speel Stychesquie??) tried the same at View Point buttress, any bolts there?