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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Tactics for the aspiring onsight leader |
15-Jan-2007 At 10:32:17 AM |
oweng
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Message |
A good tactic I use on short routes that are hard from the start is to climb up and place the first one or two pieces of gear, then down climb back to the ground and rest for a minute or two. This is especially useful on routes 10 or 15 metres high that have pumpy / tricky to place gear at the start. Often I find im stressed and overgripping due to worrying about the groundfall, so can get quiet pumped. Down climbing allows recovery and far less chance of failing near the top due to pumping out.
Similar to bombers point about climbing stance to stance I guess. |
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