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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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bow line 30-Nov-2006 At 5:37:27 PM prb

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On 30/11/2006 ti wrote:
>* The mean break strength of a figure 8 end is 3,493.8 Ibs
>* The mean breakt strength of a bowline is 3,179.0 ibs

This is consistent with my understanding that the weak point of any knot is where the rope is most curved, ie. the sharpest "bend". I believe the figure 8 is the best knot possible in that regard. But obviously these are both strong knots if tied correctly.

A few years back a fairly experienced climber got his bowline wrong at Norton Summit, resulting in 2 broken wrists and 2 broken ankles. Other SA Chockstoners may know more details of that story.

The only figure 8 problem I've seen was my fault. I lead solo occasionally on a Soloist and had bought a (too) short length of cord (Gemini?) to attach the base of the device to my waist harness krab. There was a bit of tail (perhaps 1cm) but not really enough for comfort. At a remote crag in the Moonarie area, preparing to step from an easy pillar onto a hardish wall, I test weighted the system and the figure 8 just exploded. I went a bit pale and retired for the day. Obviously a decent tail is essential for any knot, particularly with stiffish cord. It's good when you learn a lesson without getting badly hurt.