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General Climbing Discussion

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Training options 17-Aug-2006 At 3:46:47 PM Nottobetaken

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I experimented with a 6 week program last year - with surprising results (I have previously been a fan of 12). I did 2 weeks general enduro mileage on easy routes that I had wired - then 2 weeks bouldering on a board (power) - then 2 weeks power-endurance (again, mainly on a board). Took a weekend off at the end of that thinking I wasn't overly fit - at least for anything longer than 10 moves, yet jumped on a 30m line one-grade off my limit (anyone for Tiptoe Ridge?). 4 shots later it was done. It pays to be specific though.

The meat of the route was in 18m (my perfect distance), had a distinct boulder-problem crux, and two good rests before and after. It was sort of like doing three boulder problems in a row - with 10-15 seconds rest inbetween them. I knew I could do the single problems - I just didn't think I'd last the whole distance - so I climbed fast with no mistakes. If it had been some sustained complex marathon with easier moves, but no rests - I probably wouldn't have got to the halfway mark! Moral of the story: Choose your routes wisely!