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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Training options 17-Aug-2006 At 2:23:51 PM Goodvibes
Of course you would go for power Stu, after all, training endurance only makes you weak.

It all depends on your current weaknesses adski, and what kind of climbing you intend to do on your road trip. If it is trad then I guess focus on the endurance, sport, power and power endurance, bouldering (unlikely I know)just crank up the max strength and power.

Fingers are key. You could start off with a max strength building phase where you would do some weighted hangs on the hangboard. Repeaters are great for this, just make sure you add enough weight so that you fail within 4 to 10 seconds. Anything more and you are no longer at your limit and are wasting your time. Add some lock offs and weighted hangs in there as well to work your arms. Then maybe a few sessions on the system board, before a little bit of campusing. Then you would maybe do some intervals and finish off with some more campusing. I like to start and finish off each session with a few frontlevers as well just to make sure you are totally punished.

Plenty of antagonist work on the off days and make sure you are totally fresh before any max strength or power sessions.

Six weeks is not very long though so you won't be albe to do everything. A 3,2,1 program is way too short to get any real gains but can certainly act as a great mid season top up.

As you (and I know only too well) know, training and getting strong indoors does not necessarily translate to an increase in climbing performance. Make sure you train enough movement and that your head is in the right space to make the most of what ability you have.

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