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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Route Setting 28-Jun-2006 At 9:10:38 PM adski

Message

It's smart to solve route cruxes by rolling and twisting but on a training woody most of the problems should be frontal to force core strength and wide rockover strength. Unless of course this training lark is all too serious and you're just bouldering for fun. :-) Nice start with the two walls at different angles, it's a good setup.

I wouldn't bother setting easy problems first, as it's easier to set these based off existing hard problems than it is to set nice hard problems when you've already put all your holds on the wall.

Taking a systems approach to setting boulder problems allows you to isolate particular grip types and work them: On a recent wall resetting frenzy my aim was wide crimp rockover strength. I first set a few crimp problems that I initally couldn't do, and worked on them for a few months until the point I could lap them with a weight belt. Once I had set one wide frontal pinch problem, I could set another on the other side by reusing half the holds :-) I then set a diagonal matrix of two finger pockets, that also reuses some of my more favourite and finger friendly pockets between problems.

Finally, finishing holds should *not* be tweaky, cause there's sure to be some wild slaps for the top! I have a small headwall above the 45 with a mix of slopers and blobs.

Once your base problems are on, it's time to get creative with the leftover holds or recreate your project's crux, have fun and don't neglect your antagonists.