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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Araps Rebolting 12-Jan-2006 At 12:58:53 PM Richard

Message

On 31/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>More to the point - Chris Shepard is readily contactable - did anyone
>ask him if he'd mind having his route changed? Every time I've rebolted
>a route I've exercised the courtesy of writing to or calling the first
>ascensionist and asking their permission. I just think its polite....
>is that anywhere in the VCC or Safe Cliffs bolting guidelines? I sincerely
>hope that someone will do the same if they ever want to re-equip one of
>my routes.

Phew... yes, that is covered (in the VCC guidelines) - quite near the start:

1.4 "Fixed protection should not be added or moved on a climb (i.e. retro-bolting) that has previously been done by naturally protected means without the express permission of the first ascentionist. If the bolt placement needs to be changed and the first ascentionist cannot be contacted then ‘local best practice’ should be used (see section 5 – Replacing Bolts, Bolt Removal and Retro-bolting). Routes exist where the first ascentionist wanted to create a climb in the purest possible style. Adding or moving bolts may alter the nature of the climb and devalue the efforts of the first ascent."

Cheers