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General Climbing Discussion

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Araps Rebolting 21-Dec-2005 At 2:35:47 PM Nottobetaken

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On 21/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:
>are these routes
>being retro/rebolted by someone who'd done it in it's previous form, or
>by a person who wanted to climb it but was unprepared to unless it was
>re-equipped?

Good point - but again, I think the level of 'retroing' here is minimal - rather than the opposite.

>BTW the quality of the peg on turinga didn't seem to bother Jon Muir on
>his ascent.....

Fair enough - but in this case we're talking about the replacement of 1 fixed piece that was originally placed for the purposes of a roped lead ascent. If we took the avenue of stripping fixed protection - or leaving it to rot - just because someone's now soloed the route - then that would be a tad out of order what? I'm happy to go and repeat the thing sans useless piton or bolt - but then I dribble a lot and like climbing without a rope anyway. Pity the person that doesn't and goes up there and clips the pin - only to find that it barely holds body weight... and there might be a few people that will do just that - given it's marked up as a 3 star 25 with no mention of 'chop value' in the guide whatsoever.

>Let's think outside the box
>and not go down the path of homogenisation. Open the first page of any
>guide book "climbing is an inherently dangerous activity".

Agreed - but free climbing to me is free climbing - not f---ing around with crappy bits of gear. If I wanted to do that - I'd go aid climbing.

On 21/12/2005 gordoste wrote:
>What's the difference between climbing something with a runout finish,
>and just skipping the last 3 bolts? Essentially you can make anything runout
>by skipping bolts.... why do we perceive skipping bolts as "stupid" and
>doing a runout climb as "bold"????

That doesn't even deserve a response - but go and try it. It's a fun game - but yeah - it IS pretty bloody stupid!