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Araps Rebolting 20-Dec-2005 At 8:25:33 PM Nottobetaken

Message

On 20/12/2005 Jonesy wrote:

Jonesy,
Thanks for the interesting post. I agree with some of what you have said -
but of course not all of it.

>I think it's important to acknowledge that this route was done at time
>when "boldness was back" and the likes of Carrigan and the Shepards were
>laying it down. Treading in the footsteps of those preceding us is one
>of the things that makes climbing so great. When you go and do these routes
>in the same style as Barber, Morehead, Sorenson or Law, you get to know
>these visionaries and are privileged to enjoy the same experience as them.
> For example, why not try leaving the friends on the ground and climbing
>some of Barber's routes on hexes and nuts? Respect.

For real - and especially in terms of something like Mind Arthritis.
Replacing the peg was unwarranted as far as I'm concerned - as it indeed
added to the character of the route. However, I don't think that there's
many instances of out-right retrobolting going on in general. I also
understand to some degree the want to maintain museum relics - but really -
if it's a bolt - then it might as well be a good one.

>Similarly all of Claw's artistic implants have extracted from Slopin Sleazin to be repalced
>by homogenized rings. Boring. For sure re-equip, but leave the odd old
>bit in to be marvelled at like some sort of hanging museum.

You mean like all the crap that's hanging off Procul, Anxiety etc? Why? When
the NBF cleaned up Aftermath (removed 3 ancient carrots from memory) and
replaced all of those with just 1 single bolt - I think they were doing us
all a favour. Procul looks like shit when you climb it - there's enough
ironmongery on that thing to melt down and make into a small tricycle! Why
not get rid of these museum relics and replace the three 1m-apart-carrots
with just one new bolt (or none at all).

I can see your point with carrots vs rings - but this has and will always be
an issue for some people (see the many topics already raised on this
subject). Personally I regard the use of rings (or fixed hangers) as a
logical step in gear modification - similar to the likes of everything else
that we as climbers have brought on board to help us get up a route
(chalk/better shoes/camming devices etc). Just like everything else in this
world - climbing has moved on - for better or for worse - but no longer are
you going to find people having to wear EB's and rack up sans a set of
Friends. But I won't dribble on about the carrot vs ring saga. I'm all for
minimalising the impact (visually) of bolts - but that can still be done with
a bit of paint (as witnessed by the majority of recently placed bolts (fixed
hangers or rings) at Araps).

You should have a look at my thread on Tjuringa to do with the second pitch
- as this also touches on the same issues to some degree. The fixed piece in
the roof (the only fixed piece) is now redundant. It is highly unlikely that it
was in this state upon Tobin's first ascent. This begs the question: Should it be
replaced - or should it (in line with the museum relic theme) be left for the next aspiring leader to perhaps take a fall on it - and suffer the consequences?

I understand the want to keep these routes as a part of history - but surely if the 'fixed piece' has deteriorated (on any route) - then it's up for replacement. If there hadn't been a fixed piece there to begin with - then fair enough - leave as is.

I could be wrong, but I think the small amounts of retroing taking place are on routes deemed to be virtual sport routes anyway (Have A Good../MA etc). The piton on MA was probably replaced with this line of thinking in mind - but like you say - a fall at this point (if it failed) would be big - but not dangerous. Replacing something like the piton on Tjuringa is of far more value as I see it - but that's another topic!