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General Climbing Discussion

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Why isnt 2-Dec-2005 At 12:08:31 PM JamieF

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On 2/12/2005 gfdonc wrote:
>...when bolting Question of Ethics...we initially thought 5 (or more) bolts were required
>...I was able to work this down to 3 ... but still offer relatively safe falls.
> The penalty was "a death sentence off the deck" (in Neil's words in the
>Chockie guide), but to counter this, on the FA it did take a couple of
>tries to clip the first bolt and no ankles were broken in the process.

A Question of Ethics seems to me to be very well bolted and quite safe if you have someone spot you to the first bolt (which you could always clip with a long draw anyway). My only concern on this climb would be falling before the first bolt and taking both myself and the spotter down the ledge to the right, which you can easily avoid by anchoring the spotter.

As far as the main wall at Big Rock goes, I thought from memory that the two bolts on the grade 15s adequately protected the moves at that grade, but then the pro ran out for the lower angled easier climbing at the top, as is the case for much of the youies, even for urinal wall, which nobody thinks is underbolted. those moves would be straight forward for a grade 15 leader, just scary being a way above the last bolt. i don't think they are nearly as underprotected as "2 bolts in 30 metres" suggests.

Jamie