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General Climbing Discussion

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Climbing Destinations in Europe? 2-Dec-2005 At 9:31:30 AM Nottobetaken

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How about Le Chant du Cygne 7a (24) - put up in '92 by Conrad Anker – a fully bolted sport route on the Eiger North Face. Has mixed terrain of ED3 to get back down, but that shouldn’t be a problem. With El Nino etc I think most of the snow would've melted anyway and you can probably just hike it. Otherwise you could always do a quick beginners course in ice down in Grindelwald before heading off.

The actual route has an ‘obligatory grade’ of 6b+ (22). That means you need to be able to free climb 22 to get from bolt to bolt (if you want to aid it that is) - but you know aid climbing's for the birds - so you probably don't need such info. At 900m long it's the same height as El Cap – but with loads more exposure (about 2 or 3kms of it down into the valley) – with the final 4 or 5 pitches overhanging quite a lot. Check out:

http://www.alpinist.com/climbing-notes/note/10020/

It’s number #24 (orange line) taking the pillar on the right hand side of the North Face.

A friend did it in a day car to car (36 pitches).
Take a helmet, a couple of Mars Bars, and a six pack of Red Bull - you'll be fine.