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General Climbing Discussion

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Whats happened to chocky? 9-Nov-2005 At 4:45:35 PM Mike

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This reminds me of that Monty Python scene where the couple who've run out of conversation buy one at a restaurant.

Here's a little tit bit... I had a crack at that 17 at Weeribee Gorge recently. The one at the end of the catwalk. Wide crack. Too wide to jam, to narrow to chimney. Looked bloody impressive from the ground, at least by Weeribee standards. Anyway, 17 my arse! I'd accept 20 at least. Got 3/4rds of the way up okay with nice rest stances, then suddenly it was seriously pumpy with no let up.

The one big cam I had was on tips and the crack just got wider above. I knew I could probably get a fair way by laybacking, but I'd need to rest before long, and without any pro or stances that could lead to bigger fall than I was prepared to accepted. So I grabbed the one big cam below me and repositioned it higher. Laid back into a couple of moves... now what? Still no where to rest. Chicken wing it? Getting pumped silly now. Reach down, pluck out the cam and move it up. Thrash up a few more inches, half kind of jammed in now, at least my arms are. Feet on nothing but smoothness. Shit that cam's gonna wobble out! No pro below for a looooong way. .......Back down we go, dog it, rest up.

The remainder turned into a full on aid session. Silver jugging mere centimeters at a time. All of this just to win the last few feet to the top. I finally flopped over the brim so worked I couldn't grip the rope for a while.

I highly recommend this "17" for anyone wanting a workout.

PS: I'll be at Araps this weekend, if anyone wants to join me. Doing easy stuff.