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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Climbing Ethics 11-Sep-2005 At 7:30:32 AM Hatman

Message

Regaurding spacing - I was taught to bolt a route like so.

First bolt high enough so that you dont hit the ground if you fall when clipping the second bolt.

Second bolt not to far away from the first to reduce the possibility of a ground fall.

every bolt after that about a body + arms length away from the previous bolt.

Of course this depends on crux's and suitable spots for bolts. I place bolts closer together if the crux can not be protected well with one bolt. I space bolts futher apart if the going is easy and there is little chance of a ground fall.

Where I live there is not alot of sport climbing localy. However ther are plenty of bolts. The reason being that in the dark ages the general idea was to place bolts only to facilitate protection on a other wise trad route. Eg. A slab that needs a bolt or two folowed by a crack of pure trad. This ethic seems to aply in the current local climbing comunity.

Have a look at the paper on bolting in sandstone at www.climbinganchors.com