Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

top roping from rap anchors 6-Aug-2005 At 9:19:07 AM Hatman

Message

I supose that the threaded situation is not a death triangle. However corss loading is still present. And exagerated depending on where the belayer and climber are situated.

You are still loading the bolts in a week orientation. Even though the forces aplied are much less than a sling triangle.

That said there are still some dodge bolts out there that would not like a cross load like this. For example if as quite often happens some wally new to the game puts in some rings on his first new route and does not cut a notch for them to sit in.

This would considerably weaken the bolts cross loading strength. If the bolt twists at all the brittle glue will snap letting go of the bolt. This applys to lots of bolts. As there are some crap ones that you just dont realise.

I have met some of these bolts and have used them as top rope anchors but only with an equalised system. I would hessitate to use a rope threaded through them. An would never abseil off them as this creates a triangle again no? Any how abseiling SUX

U bolts are great! you can cross load them with no hope of twisting due to the two holes!