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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

top roping from rap anchors 5-Aug-2005 At 5:40:25 PM Ronny

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Two draws is probably fine almost all of the time, but you can't sensibly argue that two locking biners isn't safer. Then you think about how much difference in time there is between setting up the two (possibly 1/2 a second at best for doing up the gate?) and its a no brainer that you might as well put one on.

Its horses for courses though, if you've got to the top without locking biners, plannign on lowering of and letting someone else lead, and then they decide to toprope instead, the above doesn't apply and you probably wouldnt' bother to climb it again, or lower a rope for a locking biner or something like that.

Oh and I reakon that thinking that relative beginner might not make it to the top is not a reason for toproping off the rings. just climb it again or something, or give them a jumar, or tell them to try a more suitable route (not necessarily easier, but one that you can get to the top of some other way to clean up).

The basic deal i rekon is *never* toprope on non-replaceable fixed gear, abseil whereever possible (including when cleaning), and add replaceable components where possible to remove the problem. I lower off fixed stuff occasionally when i have to, but just try to avoid it where possible.
J