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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
top roping from rap anchors 5-Aug-2005 At 7:10:58 AM Hatman
Message
Ok lets clear it up a bit.

You clip the rope through the draws so they are oposed (gates back not on same side)
This makes it much safer as if an action occurs that can unclip one draw acidentaly it wont affect the other.

You should equalise to avoid cross loading the bolts. attach a sling in the "american death triangle" (once again some thing you yanks invented)

No mater what the propper practice is you see many people simply top ropeing through the bolts (if they are rings which i understand there is no many of in the states)

This is bad because it creates a large death triangle and also puts wear on a non redundant part of the system. I have seen SS bolts worn 3/4 through!

On any new routes I put up with bolts I atatch a twisted shackle(s) to the anchors. This makes it easier to lower and you can replace the shackle(s) if it wears.

There are 41 replies to this topic.

 

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