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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Gym Grading 15-Jun-2005 At 5:51:03 PM steph

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On 15/06/2005 dalai wrote:
>This also included holds at that particular gym, as it is rare these
>days to have special new holds made for comps.

Yeah i agree with the home-ground advantage for everything including the gym setters, the route inclines and the hold styles. At least comps are held in different places all the time which evens it out i guess.

I must say tho - I think comp setters have advanced lately cos now the focus is on creating interesting climbs that get more difficult as they get higher. I've been in/witnessed many a comp where everyone has fallen off at the sudden crux below the half way mark and therefore made it difficult to distinguish place getters. 1st, 2nd and 3rd were based on a 15-, 15 and 15+. (minus being a tapped hold, flat being a held hold and plus being a hold pushed up on). It's also good that it's almost fully lead climbing only now in comps so it's really obvious when you fall. I must admit tho it's hard to find the guts to commit to a move on lead in a comp when u r s#*@ nervous...