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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Making climbing fairer |
29-Dec-2004 At 2:26:48 PM |
(removed)
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Message |
I wish everyone would stop crapping on about ape indexes as a factor when climbing. Absolutely not a factor: any benefit from longer reach is offset by having to pull longer levers. Same goes for height with the exception of the very occasional route.
Why not do some kind of metric of motivation/hours spent training/determination/climbing experience metric ? Then you'll find where the real correlation is. Even a guy like Dave Jones is friggin' heavy (I spotted him on a boulder problem a few months back and he nearly broke my arms) AND short, yet can quite happily crank out the odd 30 still. He'll stuff your metric. Why ? Because he's a good climber, who has trained a lot and climbed a lot. Nothing to do with ape factors, BMI's or any of that sh!t.
Get out there and do some training instead. |
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