Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Ivan the terrible 21-Oct-2004 At 2:53:55 PM Mike

Message

On 21/10/2004 Pietro_2003 wrote:
>And what 'right' gear would that be? (or isn't it kosher to ask for beta)

A weird little two move start puts you on a ledge. You then walk right 3m or so to the start of the crack proper, which is really only oh I don't know 6m high? Shove your back against the right side of the crack (this is where the day pack sucks), reach high, step up, pop in a small cam or nut, then the fun begins. Some more moves, a couple of good nuts (if you want them), and you're at the crux; a little rightwards facing crack with poor feet. Here you can drop in a #3 camalot. A jug high on your left lures but is useless when combined with the monstor sidepull on your right. Go the side pull, smear the feet, hope, and if all else fails, dog the camalot. After that it eases off to a ramp finish. The start of block buster is about 3m left on the ledge you arrive at.

Have fun! It's a comical pitch. I was laughing at myself the whole way. The only danger I could see would be popping off the start of the crack proper, because your belayer is out of sight and some distance horizontally, meaning a nut might be tugged out by the rope, and you wouldn't need much rope streach at all to hit the ledge. But doing it in two pitches, one of which would be barely 5m seems a pain for something that is "only a 12".

It's a giggle! Blockbuster at one grade less will seem like a ladder.