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General Climbing Discussion

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whos the top ozy climber 12-Oct-2004 At 2:38:47 PM SteveH

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Part 1

Its interesting how a lot of people in these forums are very quick to jump on their band-wagon when someone says something differently to how they would say it. Discussing whom the best at anything is general campfire talk, and most people would have done it about something, sometime. (Did you watch the Olympics or any Music/Movie Awards)?

Phillip, I do think your list was a little restrictive and you need to be more specific to your opinion of ‘sport climber’. Do you mean competition climber or sport-route climber?

Max and others, in my humble opinion, to define the best it comes down to numbers :O It may be controversial, but that is the way I see it. That being said, I would rate a climber consistent at a grade for a period of time, higher than someone who ticks one high number. In most sports it simply comes down to numbers; time, weight, score etc. In climbing it is the same, although thankfully that is not the be all and end all of climbing, and lots of people don’t care or chase grades. But people are interested in the top end of the sport. This is where some people get inspiration and conversation!

The best does not mean the most influential, respected, charismatic, controversial person. It is not the person who has equipped the most routes, has the most experience, or made the most contributions to the climbing community/culture. These people deserve respect and to be discussed in other topics. Numbers, numbers, numbers.

The question from Phillip appears to be a modern question, of current climbers doing hard things and not the best ever, or the best at a time or era. I will answer accordingly.

Although I agree with the sentiments of Josh, there are a few points that may need clarification, including;

James Scarborough – Doesn’t climb sports routes anymore
Phil Sage – Kiwi
Giles Bradbury – read above (done way to much scary stuff to be a sport climber)
Mikl – One of my personal favourites, but read above
J Smoothy – Read above
A Penny – Read above
Lloyd – Up there with Mikl
Steve Grkovic – Up there with Phil
Jark – Numbers, numbers, numbers (love your work though)
Mark Baker – Isn’t he retired?!?! Joking, has a place in climbing history but not as the best sport climber
Saxon – Does he climb routes any more?
Matt Adams (can we claim him?) – No, but its good he’s here
Fred Yule (ok that’s stretching it a bit) – Like Matt and Phil and Steve
Rod Young – Read Above
Rob Lebreton – Has been close
Graham & Veronica Hill – This isn’t a route-naming contest!

Down to the original list I agree with Cameron that Chris Webb has the potential to be the best sport and competition climber in Australia, but not yet. From the list provided, I would have to nominate Zac, he has climbed the most 30+’s out of anyone (correct me if I’m wrong), has been doing it for longer than most the others have been climbing and continues to. If you are talking competition climbing, it is Alan Price, unless you want to dissect and separate bouldering comps and difficulty comps. Marc Edwards probably has the most international comp experience now though.