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General Climbing Discussion

John Brailsford passed away.
10:10:04 PM
It is with great sadness that I have learned of the death of my friend John Brailsford. I met John for the first time in L'Argentière-La Bessée (France), in October 1997, after a long correspondence. Before pushing the door of his house, Le Chalet du Guide, I was very anxious to meet such a legendary climber and Mountain Guide, but also the originator of the first purpose designed nut, the Acorn and, later, the MOAC. John welcomed me with so much kindness and really enjoyed my passion for the history of early climbing equipment. I met John again, several times, in Corsica and in England. Each time it was still a magic moment just listening to him telling me so many fascinating stories. John Brailsford still remains for me a true mine of knowledge on the Nuts’ Story. I will never forget the “Old Testament”, the nickname with which he signed the letters he sent to me. With all my warmest thoughts to John's wife, family and friends.
See photographs and story on Mountain Project forum below.
10:28:57 PM
11:31:57 PM
When I started in the early '70s the MOAC (and its half-sized sibling on wire the Baby MOAC) was the greatest thing since sliced bread. I often carried more than one they were so useful. By today's standard the wedge taper was a bit steep, but they were very useful size, and typically felt bombproof.

I also owned what was probably a copy of an Acorn. I don't think I ever successfully used it on a climb! (I eventually filed it down into something vaguely stopper-like in the hope I could use for aid, but even that didn't work!)
9:22:09 AM
Hey PW, didn't one of the MOACs come on a swaged wire sling? I have memories of one of them with a wire that was about 5mm diameter and as flexible as I am now!
11:44:59 AM
The Baby MOAC (or at least the only ones I ever saw) came on a super-thick cable that could have withstood Armageddon. On the plus side, there were no problems reaching up high to place it, and it was easier to get back out. (Or lift out as you went past...)

5:20:34 PM
I am sorry for the loss of your friend nutstory, and condolences to those who knew John Brailsford personally.
Although I didn’t know him I still respect the innovation he showed and perseverance in making into reality his concepts of climbing equipment.
Thank you for bringing his passing to our attention.

On 5-Apr-2022 BA wrote:
>Hey PW, didn't one of the MOACs come on a swaged wire sling? I have memories
>of one of them with a wire that was about 5mm diameter and as flexible
>as I am now!

Hmm. If your flexibility is like mine, then I don’t imagine we will be giving Olympic Gymnasts any competition any time soon …
Aside from that, the 5mm cable thing rings some memory bells pretty strongly!
I’d have to peruse my defunct gear pile but there could actually be one of the aforementioned moacs in there.
I know for sure that I’ve got aid gear on such cable (alumni-heads), but having gravitated to the ‘thin aid’ end of the spectrum relegated such to the defunct pile, as RP’s replaced them for the most part.

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