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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
VCC/CliffCare Route Development Moratorium-GNP 31-Oct-2018 At 7:22:11 PM One Day Hero
That's not really much of a rant Goshen.....allow me.

I strongly believe in an approach to climbing exploration and development which will pass a "glance from a distance" check. Anyone who knows what they're looking for can walk into a climbing area and recognise that it's seeing use. However, it would be nice if random walkers, tourists, and land managers didn't have obvious development rubbed in their faces and could walk past at a reasonable distance without even noticing anything. This isn't being ashamed of climbing, it's common good manners. You don't litter in the street, you don't vandalise public art. Why do some climbing developers seem to go out of their way to leave in-your-face signs of their presence?

I'm so incredibly pissed off that this development ban in the whole Grampians seems to have been brought to a head by a bunch of no-star horrible little filler sport routes at Black Ian's f---ing Rocks! Are we likely to lose access to world class routes because some utter muppets grid bolted the garbage filler routes which had been left undone by 50 years of climbers at a minor little climbed-out crag? Fuch these people. Why are they allowed to continue climbing after they gambled all of our futures on some worthless ego-stroking junk. They should have stuff thrown at them every time they show up to a crag!

This is the same shit I rant on about with regard to Araps. There are a thousand great routes at Araps with barely any bolts, and the place is effectively climbed out. Sure, you can squeeze some stupid contrived sport routes in, but how many of the climbs which have gone up in the last decade are actually worth a star? If there was a 1% chance that the dumb bolted routes and retro anchors (which continue to go in unabated) would affect access to the whole crag, would it be worth the risk?

So much to lose so little to gain, and the outdated frontier ethic of "whoever finds a new line can develop it how they please" is allowing the morons with the lowest standards and weakest understanding of risk/reward to sit at the roulette wheel with everyones chips on the table.


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