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General Climbing Discussion

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Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 1-Jun-2018 At 10:19:58 AM kieranl

Message

On 1-Jun-2018 Dave_S wrote:
>On 31-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Unrusted full sleeve expansion bolts are
>>generally very quick and easy to replace.
>
>My experience removing them has involved some difficulty, but then that's
>only been those with a hex nut head, not a bolt head. The process went
>like this:
>1) Remove the nut and hanger.
>2) Grind down the thread close to flush with the rock.
>3) Push the thread back into sleeve.
>4) Insert a star plug (the cheap, household, plastic masonry anchors)
>into the sleeve.
>5) Drill a screw into the star plug, leaving at least 1cm poking out.
>6) With pliers, pull on the screw to extract the sleeve.
>7) Fish the remains of the thread/cone out of the hole.
>
>Admittedly if it's a hex head dynabolt rather than a thread and nut one,
>you skip steps 2-3, meaning a grinder isn't required. And if there's enough
>of the sleeve protruding from the rock to allow you to grip it with pliers
>then it's even easier.
>

What you're describing suggests that these sleeve bolts aren't correctly installed. Sleeve bolts should be installed with the hanger fitted around the sleeve, not with the top of the sleeve flush with the rock surface.