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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 31-May-2018 At 9:00:54 PM One Day Hero
On 31-May-2018 Dave_S wrote:

>It's really only full-sleeve expansion bolts like DynaBolts that could
>be removed, and even then it's with some difficulty. And then they have
>the downside that due to the fact that their threaded part needs to be
>smaller than the hole diameter in order to leave room for the sleeve, they
>require a larger hole than other expansion bolts in order to get the same

This is pretty much all wrong. Unrusted full sleeve expansion bolts are generally very quick and easy to replace.
Trubolts can be removed, but it requires more tools and is very time consuming.
Full sleeve expansions are roughly three quarters the strength in sheer (which is what counts).
A 12mm full sleeve stainless expansion is the best bolt for hard rock.....unless you prefer glued in 10mm stainless carrots.

>But yes, bolts should absolutely be designed to last as long as

Not if a slightly longer lifespan comes at the cost of difficult replacement down the track.

>That means epoxy rather than cheaper adhesives (like Ramset
>101) for glue-ins, stainless 316 for all inland bolts, titanium for marine
>environments, using replaceable lower-off hardware on anchors for popular
>climbs, and ensuring tightenable bolts don't come loose (in order to avoid
>damage to bolt threads when someone falls on a loose hanger).

Ugh! Titanium is overkill at Point Perp. There are 30 year old 316 bolts which look like new.
Full sleeve expansions don't have the hanger sitting on the thread, which is another reason they're better.
Ease of replacement, and reusable holes are the important things. Glue-ins should be small Us or stainless carrots, not recessed rings.

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