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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolt Removal 26-May-2018 At 11:09:14 AM Wendy
On 25-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 24-May-2018 Stugang wrote:
>>quite frankly
>>Quite frankly
>Foul, double-frankly!
>Is the miraculously unearthed 13m gr13 any good? Tell me it's a 2 star
>route, and I might see why a retrobolt could be justified. Maybe Simey
>could chime in and tell us how many 2 and 3 star routes have been added
>at Araps in the last decade? Cause it sure looks like a bunch of desperate
>starving vultures picking through the carcass of a climbed out crag.

It's actually about as good as you could expect a 13m 13 to be. They are never going to be mindblowing, but it's good.
>For example; why is Coming on Chris Direct a thing? That was probably
>the most egregious one I saw this time. Oh, you know what Araps really
>needs? A fuching contrived, single bodylength, bolted gr21 finish to a
>popular trad gr16!?!? Why? If you're so bored with the 1000 good routes
>at Araps that bolting that pox seemed like a good idea, then it's time
>to move. Go live in the Bluies. There's a lifetime of contrived, ringbolted
>shit up there now. Just go and climb the existing turd instead of bringing
>little chunks of it to the best trad crag in the country.

That's been there a while. You are behind the times. Yep, it's scrappy. The lower anchor just because people are too lazy to build a top roping anchor for Nose Job off the original bolts is also scrappy. I think you might get to go argue with Gordy about it.

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