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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 24-May-2018 At 10:41:32 AM One Day Hero

Message

On 24-May-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>Uh, 8kN, 10kN, not much difference.

That's straight out, ya goose! The only load they ever see in that direction is the 0.5kN of some numpty aiding without slings.

>As per the link above it's happened
>at least once. That's once too many.

So what? Rings and fixed hangers have their own failure modes which lead to unclipping. There are plenty of examples of this happening in the field.

>Bolts ought to be placed to meet accepted standards.

25kN outwards is ludicrous overkill. None of the bolts I place will pass. I'd be rather surprised if any friction bolts pass in quartzite or limestone, and a fair chunk of rings in soft rock will fail too.
>
>The visual thing was discussed at length in the pub last night. I'll
>repeat the salient points:
>- Once you're 8m up, bolts are hard to spot from ground so it's only other
>climbers who are going to get uptight about the 'visual impact'.

That would be me. I think the walls in the blueys with a 2.5m grid of shiny rings look f---ing atrocious, and I won't allow it to spread to traddy crags which I like.