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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 15-May-2018 At 5:35:15 AM Wendy
On 14-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 14-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>We are trying to set standards so that slippery slopes don't occur, because
>>much as everyone loves using them for this argument, they can and are
>>in almost all cases by agreeing on an appropriate point on the slope
>>set boundaries.
>This is how I approach things these days. There is a poxy toprope cliff
>in Canberra which was getting incrementally sportified. For various reasons
>which I won't go into, this was thought by many locals to be a bad idea.
>We drew a line on the slope and told people that if one more bolt went
>in they'd all get chopped. More bolts went in, they all got chopped. If
>they go back in, they'll get chopped and we'll go debolt a legitimate sport
>crag too.

Did you actually talk with people and reach an agreement? Or just wander in with your usual style and piss them off further?

So, when the bolter turns out to be as stubborn and antagonistic as you are, the bolts will go back in again. You take it out on some irrelevant crag and spread the damage further. Pissed off bolter will go and find somewhere else to bolt in revenge.Will probably go to your favorite crag and chip off all the holds in a similar act of irrelevant retaliation. Pours oil down the slabs at Booroomba. Stuffs faeces into a few cracks. Continues ad infinitum. See, I can create slippery slopes too! But once you start drawing irrelevant crags into the equation, this playgrund game is getting really dumb. Imagine Gordy on the other end of your game?

>Same deal with retro loweroffs at Araps. There were enough ten years ago,
>I drew a line two years ago, this time there were more. Next time I'm down,
>I'll pack a tool kit.
>The odd thing is, if you talk to Nati climbers about endless growth with
>finite resources relating to any topic other than climbing, they're a raving
>bunch of sustainable, anti-kid, low-carbon, commie loons. But bolting?
>Yeah, that can go on forever.

So did you talk with Geoff, Glenn or Muki whilst you were down here (about bolting, not commie lunacy)? You can draw all the lines you want. You have to also communicate them constructively before there's any great point to them.

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