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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 13-May-2018 At 5:06:36 AM Wendy
On 12-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 12-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>Thanks Keiran for attempting to initiate reasonable discussion and for
>>pointing out that tit for tat bolting/chopping is a childish non solution.
>Nobody does tit for tat bolting, they just bolt. What you're saying is
>that nobody should chop bolts.......which means the bolters will just do
>as they please. Surprisingly, chopping bolts seems to be very effective,
>with no rebolts of recently chopped routes (that I know about). I'm also
>going to be extremely mature and not make the joke about australian climbing
>needing less tats and....

Since when were you mature? Think of the Gordy sagas for some great tit for tat examples. You're also assuming that no one has ever thought about bolting something then not bolted it. Strangely enough, that happens. I'm trying to encourage the thinking beforehand side of the picture.
>>Do we need a moratorium? Or do we need to stop waffling on chockstone
>>and start engaging the broader community and get some guidelines out
>I have a much simpler and more workable solution than Kieran's (and it
>doesn't require an altimeter). Just dial before you drill. Call the traddiest
>person you know and tell them exactly what you have planned, then (this
>is the tricky bit) listen to what they say. The beauty of this idea is
>that if you're nervous about calling Malcolm or Lou or whoever and describing
>the vegetated piece of choss you want to grid, then you probably already
>know that you shouldn't be doing it.

You might be surprised what lou wants to bolt. i'd say lou's position is generally pretty similar to mine. Or you might say that we both just think about it with open minds.

Malcolm is a slightly unpredictable fish on the matter. He's very attached to some old school mixed routes of his, but has also bolted squeeze jobs at araps.

however, dial before you drill is a pretty good concept! But maybe, dial a few people of different backgrounds with a knowledge of the area to scope out a range of opinions.

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