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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 10-May-2018 At 12:01:25 PM Wendy
Oh god, the rosea debate again. Really, it has never been a bolt free crag. There have been bolts and anchors on it as long as I have been climbing. Above Debutante DS. The routes immediately right of it. At base of Scarface. If there aren't any to replace the old rap trees on RIP corner and Knick Kanck, there should be. Coronary Country and a few other things down there. Can people please stop deluding themselves? That is not even touching the pitons. Or tat. Or fixed wires. Or slings on trees. Fixed gear has existed since time immemorial at Rosea. Despite that, it has not been grid bolted. Can we please not have another slippery slope argument about it?

Back on topic, my general assessment of if something has enough gear is, would I lead it? Being the world's biggest wuss who bursts into tears above gear on grade 15 slabs, it's a fairly reliable measure. I have lead Blimp a lot. I have never clipped either the old piton or the old bolt. There is plenty of gear. I am all for replacing old fixed gear with modern gear when it is necessary, but this one is not necessary.

Using the same standard on Kingdom Come, I have led it a lot, and there are good small wires around the piton as well. Simey would be proud of me, I carry my microwires up an off width. The start, on the other hand, has no gear, is desperate, and i never do it without placing large wire with a stick. If I was to feel a need to retro KC, it'd be at the start. Rip the piton all you like, it doesn't need replacing. Mention microwires in the description if you want.

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