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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 9-May-2018 At 2:41:05 PM kieranl
On 9-May-2018 FatBoy wrote:
>They're not glib posts - I'm quite sincere. As dalai said, I think it
>would be an amazing legacy to leave this cliff as Victoria's Ben Lomond.

This was kicked off by Neil's gib comment that there are less than a handful of bolts. Noone seems to want to address that issue. To me it suggests that people have a distorted view of the place. What strikes me is the generally limited number of routes that people climb at Rosea. There are lots of great climbs that are rarely, if ever repeated. Anyone done the first pitch of Bourgeois Blues? Anyone repeated Titus or Fuschia? Anyone tried to take the last aid out of Royal Blues? Anyone tried to free the approach pitches of Melanoma (let alone the roof)? You don't need to ban bolts to preserve a cliff in cobwebs - just a lack of imagination. It was refreshing to see Goshen Watts and Tim Edwards have a big day a couple of months back doing a lot of rarely repeated climbs down the lefthand end. There needs to be more of this where people actually climb on the cliff, even the bits that aren't so great.

>In specific response to your points:

  • No point fixing up It'll end in tears - it gets no ascents
  • Pull
    >the pin on Tourist Direct and you might find there's a brand new
    >micro cam slot
  • One Night Stand is a good example of a route
    >that doesn't need to exist - again no-one does it, and why would you, it's
    >13, boulder-y inconsistent 23, then 14
  • John Barleycorn might
    >just end up as a route which is a bit more serious - and that's okay so
    >long as people know this the case before they rock up


So only the routes deemed worthy shall have the fixed gear fixed up. This is patronising.

>I fundamentally object to the suggestion that we all have a right to bolt
>unclimbed rock - which you have assumed. How does that right supersede
>my right for a cliff I love to not be desecrated by hundreds of bolts ?

I'm not sugggesting either.

>Your desire for people to adhere to the general historic ethic of Rosea
>(minimal bolts) is incredibly wishful thinking - you're not the only one
>with a drill. I personally feel that unless you place a moratorium, this
>place is going to end up with 10 times the steel in it that is there now.
> You're certainly not the only one who loves that place.

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