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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 9-May-2018 At 1:10:21 PM kieranl
On 9-May-2018 dalai wrote:
>There is a huge amount of rock elsewhere in the park where you could sink
>that steel Kieran.
>Why not look at setting aside ONE cliff to be bolt free? Especially as
>Rosea in particular is well suited for this ethic to be encouraged! Sure
>bolts existed here from the beginning - as aid bolts. Why not given the
>huge improvements of trad gear since the 60's seek to utilizing this here?
>Note as you know I am not anti bolts and have sunk many over the years
>around the state, but feel this could be the greatest legacy we could leave
>the future generations of climbers. Far better than squeezing in a few
>more lines!

I don't have an objection in principle but I find the "process" to be absurd. Three people with a few glib posts in an unrelated internet thread isn't what I would call an open consultation process.

Why do I want to place bolts at Rosea? First, I need to fix to up the shoddy bolting job that I did on "It'll End In Tears" many years ago. Two bolts and a peg need replacing. Does the committee approve?

Then the old aid bolts that are used for protection on "One Night Stand" and "Barleycorn" need to be rationalised. The ancient piton on "Tourist Direct" should be replaced with a bolt. Doesn't get done often these days but you are 10 metres out by the time you reach this 55+ year old mild steel pin and the crux follows before you can get a good piece. There are heaps of others, but not on climbs that I have been involved in.

And then there are a couple of projects which might or might not need one or two bolts.

It's all a question of getting my body in order and getting up there with the gear. I can't carry heavy packs any more so it takes me a few trips to ferry gear.

Why at Rosea? Because I love the place.

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