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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades. 19-Mar-2018 At 6:20:16 AM kieranl
If this is the Pinch then the bolts were placed in 1970 on the FA. It would help if you'd mentioned the climb name.

Replacing existing rubbish bolts on an unpopular route with new FH is fine, as James said, just do it. Ideally try to extract the originals and reuse the holes. Not always possible, especially with thin mild steel carrots which often break in the hole.

Yes, use FH rather than glue-in carrots. Glue-in carrots are really only acceptable when there are issues of visual intrusion.

Grading : If this is the Pinch then it was originally graded 12 with 2 bolts for aid by BA and Bangla. IT was freed by Rod Young at grade 16 in 1975. They were all pretty solid on Buffalo wide cracks so I'd be a bit wary about upgrading it.

Tat : Yes, please remove.

And thanks for the work, though I can promise you that I'll never get on this climb.

There are 46 replies to this topic.


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